Day 16: Oh, Venezia!

May 14th, 2012 ---

The constant travelling that is involved in this trip is beginning to catch up with me. I've been more and more tired in the mornings and this morning was no different.

I woke up around 11am to someone hacking up a lung in the hallway. It sounded so awful I almost went into the hall to see if the guy was alright. I got ready and headed out to go walk along the streets and canals.

I walked around for about an hour looking at all the Venetian decorative architecture, watching gondolas cruise by, admiring all the window displays along a street with Louis Vuitton, Gucci, Pucci, Prada and many other huge designer boutiques. Then I walked passed a little shop with sandwiches and wine!

I went in, grabbed myself a salami sandwich, small piece of Brie and a small bottle of Prosecco. I found a little corner spot on some quiet stairs leading into the canal and perched myself on the ledge. I took out my cup, popped the bottle, sitting in the sunshine watching gondolas pass by while enjoying my lunch.

It was such a great little spot! So enjoyable! It was nice to just sit and bask in the sunshine with my glass of wine while reading a book for a little bit. Those times are the nicest parts of the afternoon.

I continued to walk around the city for another few hours before heading back to my hotel early evening to sort out my tours on the cruise and my accommodations for my next trip to Croatia.

This morning I had purchase a ticket to a Vivaldi orchestral & opera performance for the evening at 8:30. So around 6, I put on my pretty little pale pink skirt and heels and off I went to the square!

The great thing about San Marco square is all the quarters playing classical music outside a few other restaurants. It adds so much to the culture and enjoyment of Venice. I found myself a small round table, ordered a glass of wine and a veggie plate and took out my book to kill some time.

When you order wine at this place, they bring you out a small silver platter. Your wine, some olive, chips and a few napkins all placed on it. After finishing my veggies & wine, i had left some of the chips in the dish and as I continued to read my book all of a sudden I had a group join me at my table. Not just any group, a possey of pigeons! They swarmed at the dish of chips. I think I have a slight fear of pigeons... They freak me out with their beady little eyes and dirty reputation. The man behind me is trying to help me shoo them away as I'm nervously keeping my distance from all their flapping wings, I nearly had a bird fly into me earlier today, I didn't want one ACTUALLy to fly into me now!

With the whole pigeon deal, I decided to move on somewhere else. I still had a solid 45 minutes to kill before the concert. I found another little cafe, a cute Italian boy persuaded me in. So I decided a small dessert would be in order.
As I was sitting enjoying my brownie, at the table to the right of me were a few Americans from Michigan who I chatted with for a few minutes before they headed out and then to the left of me, an older couple from Auckland, New Zealand who I also chatted with. Both couples very nice.
I love meeting new people! Its so fun to hear everyone's different stories.

At about 8:15, I walked over to the concert hall, which was a small old church next door. I found a seat on an aisle and enjoyed the orchestra and opera singers sing many classic songs for the 45 minutes the show lasted. It was also a very good show! Though the opera singers took turns singing songs so it became annoying to have to clap everytime they left the stage, then wait for the other to come out and then clap again when they came back on the stage. There was only two of them.
Sooooo... how bout you both just stay on the stage? No?

After the show I walked back to my hotel and crashed while listening to a man in the alleyway singing opera outside my window. Oh, Venice!

Tomorrow I set out on a train to Bologna, Bologna to Ancona and then a late night eight-hour ferry to Zadar, Croatia! A full day of traveling!

Venice Gypsy

Lunch by the Canal!

Balconies on the Venice Canals

Courtyard of the Picasso Museum

Gondolas!

Vivaldi Orchestra & Opera Singers in the old church

Bascilia de Santa Maria

San Marco Square

San Marco Sqaure after the Concert

Day 15: To Venice

May 13th, 2012 ---

I had made sure I set my alarm last night so I had enough time to pack! My stuff was everywhere! Haha so when my alarm went off I scurried around Anita's apartment, making sure I grabbed everything I needed before setting out for the train station.

It was wet, cold and windy on our way. I was relieved that I wasn't going to be missing some beautiful warm day in Milan.

When we arrived at the station, I had about 20 minutes before my train was departing or Venezia, the city on water!

The first time I had ever heard about Venice was in fifth grade. My favorite teacher, Ms.Wendling, had been teaching us about Vivaldi, classical music and carnival. I recall being so fascinated and excited by thought of a city all on water, taxis by gondolas and mask-wearing celebrations! It sounded like such a magical place! From the moment I had heard about it, I decided - at 10 years old, sometime in life I will go and see Venice! So naturally, while planning this epic Euro-trip, I made it a priority to get to Venice.

I said my goodbyes and thank you's to Anita and Bogdan, who had brought me to the train station, and hopped on what looked like an old, somewhat run down train.
Once inside, it was actually quite comfortable! Large spacious leather seats, leg room.. It was fantastic! I grabbed myself a window seat and got comfortable for the 2.5hr journey ahead.

About an hour into my train ride, the guy checking the tickets comes around. I take my headphones off and I hand him my ticket, with a smile. He looks at it, "Where you go?"
"Venice"
"Venezia"
"Yes." I say, with the smile still on my face... Even though he's not even looking at me.
"2nd class"
"huh?"
He points to my Eurail pass where it says '2nd Class'
"Yes..."
"This first class, you pay or change"
"Oh I'm so sorry, I didn't realise!"
"Pay or change" He starts to check the girls ticket behind me.
"Well how much is it?"
"Pay or change car"
"Yeah, hoooow much???"
He begins to chuckle a bit, like he doesn't really know, and asks the girl behind me who is a passenger.. WTF?
"Pay or change, fifty. €50"
"€50?"
"Si. Fiiiiiftty euro" He's starting to get pissed off and so am I.
"okay, I'll just move"
"Pay or change"
"Yeah I get it. Where?"
He turns his back to me and checks another ticket and then starts to leave the car, "Pay or change!"
He STILL hasn't clarified where. As he starts walking away, I raise my voice, "EXCUSE ME! WHERE do I go?!!"
"2 cars" and points towards the back of the train.
"Thaaank you." The door of the car is closed by the time I even finish my 'thank you.'

Seriously, I'm really beginning to dislike people in Northern Italy. Geez, so bloody rude here. The amount of times I've been cut off, talked to rudely, been corrected, etc, its really starting to bother me - especially when I try to be so nice and SMILE!!! No one smiles at you here! Common people! It's okay to grin once in a while!!! Sheesh. Be effing friendly!!!!! Pshhh.

So I went two cars down, to 2nd class that smelt like typical European body odor. Nice. I find myself a nice little seat by the window and angrily take a sip of my water, take out my music and start continue working on my blog to calm down a bit.
Ugh. A**hole.

Anyways, moving on to another story within my train travel. After I had moved to the car I was to be in. I was blogging away, my luggage sitting in front of me at my legs, only blocking one seat. I was a bit uncomfortable leaving it in the baggage area of this train because of how old and kind of shady it seemed. I had been sitting with it for about an hour. When an Asian couple got on the train with a large suitcase, trying to figure out where to put it I offered to let them out it beside mine while they sat across the aisle way beside it. They appreciated it and I was officially blocked in by a bunch of suitcases! I didn't mind though, I wasn't going anywhere.

A few stops later, this older French family get on the train and practically have a fit trying to find seats in this car. I understand, the train was getting pretty full but they ended up making the Asians move there bag between there legs, which I felt bag for them - it looked super cramped and uncomfortable and then after throwing another fit they made me move my luggage into the baggage area even though I had explained to them that I previously didn't see any room for my suitcase. They argued that there was lots of room! Common, it was a full train! Lots of people had luggage on here and I can luggage stacked!
They kept pointing to the suitcase and giving me dirty looks, wanting to have one of their family members sit in the spot that was blocking my suitcase. I mean i felt bad, but this is a HUGE train. Do you all have to sit RIGHT beside each other?!
Okay maybe I'm overreacting and being a brat. Finally I gave in and move my suitcase. One of the family members is walking infront of me. An older gentleman. I thought he was being nice enough to perhaps help me with the bag that his whole family was giving me a hard time about.... Instead, he doesn't even hold the door open for me. It slams in my face. A Nun sitting beside the door grabbed the door for me and opened it with a sympathetic smile on her face. I smiled back, with some what of an exasperated look on my face and thanked her.

I went back to my seat, sat down and put my headphones back on. The seat across from where my suitcase had been?
Empty.

You have GOT to be kidding me. Seriously?! Is this real life right now?
You put up a fit and then no one in your borderline rude family ends up even sitting there? Agghhh! I'm at the point where I just want to give THEM dirty looks.
.... Okay well, no, I'm not one to give dirty looks. Not my style. But I sit quietly frustrated and listen to my music, again just chilling out.

Finally, 15-20 minutes later, the older man from the French family - the one that had not held the door open for me, is walking down the aisle and the elderly woman beside me signals him to sit in the empty seat.
Great.
Now I have to sit face-to-face with this grumpy old man that let the door slam shut on me.

He gets comfortable for a few minutes then decides to stand up and take off his jacket. As he takes off his jacket and reaches in the pocket to grab something, his coat is literally draped on my leg.
Sure, go ahead - use my leg as your table. No big deal.
UGH.
I say nothing. Just steaming with frustration and constant rudeness from everybody today.
Deep breaths, Jessica. Deep breaths.
Whatever.

I turn my music up, drowning out the volume of my anger and sit, continuing to write and move on.

Today will be a good day. Today wiiiilllll be a good day. Heck! Today is going to be a great day! Power of positive thinking.
Woo-sahhhhh!
Hahaha

The rest of the train ride to Venice goes smoothly and I was relieved to be unbothered by the French family again. I sat listening to my music and writing for the remainder of the trip. When we were nearing the station, I was amazed to notice we were crossing an enormously long bridge and arriving at the station. I was ecstatic!

Arriving, I grabbed my bag and got in line to get off the train. Of course the French family had been infront of me, so when we approached the door, AGAIN the man lets the door just slam shut on me as I'm struggling to roll my suitcase down the aisle way/ through the door.
Happy. Calm. Happy. Calm. Happy. Calm.
Sighhh. Whatever, I'm in Venice now.

I had no idea how I was getting from the train station all the way to my hotel in San Marcos square, so I figured by just walking out of the train station and looking around, I'm sure I'd figure it out.
Looking out, I noticed something saying "Water bus."
Perfect!

I get in line for a ticket. Once my ticket had been purchased, I remember I have to get my ticket to Ancona for my Tuesday departure. I quickly run inside to reserve my seat for that and then hop on the water bus to San Marco.

While on the boat, I passed some enormous cruise ships, beautifully architected buildings and couldn't help but notice how dirty and cloudy the water was. A beautiful turquoise blue-green but clouded by years and years of pollution. Kind of sad actually.

As we got closer to San Marco, we were suddenly got up in a ton of boat traffic. Boats EVERYWHERE! People honking, helicopters (yes, plural) flying above, such a commotion. What is going on?!

WELL! Turns out I had front row seats to the world sailing race, America's Cup! There were 4 or 5 boats catamarans sailing around at high speed, one almost hitting us. The Italian one had a large Prada logo, the American, Oracle, and another, Fly Emirates among several others. It was so neat! Each catamaran had there own team motor boat close by and they were cruising very quickly all around the harbor. Once arriving at the platform and I watched for a few minutes until deciding to go find my hotel.

As I walked through San Marco square, the area was BEAUTIFUL! The church on one side, a watch tower and long, long decorated buildings forming the square. It took me approximately 20 minutes to find my hotel, stopping here and there to take pictures and lugging my suitcase up stairs and across bridges, over canals. But once I arrived at the Hotel Cavalletto, I checked in and was taken to my small room with twin bed, that overlooked a small alleyway with theatre: Teatro de Gallo. It was the perfect little spot for my two nights in Venice and right beside San Marco square.

I dropped my stuff off in my room then quickly head out to go explore. As I walked by the main desk, I notice they had a board with postings for operas, orchestras and museums.

I had hoped to see an opera at La Scala in Milan but the tickets were completely sold out, so I thought I would give it another shot here. When I asked the very kind concierge, Stefano, he explained that the big theatre here sells out three years in advance!!! Holy moly! So he gave me a run down on the different operas at smaller places, where I found La Traviata! Stefano was surprised i knew what La Traviata even was, "You know La Traviata?!" "Yes, my grandmother loves opera" He gives me a surprised look, "wow! Good girl!"
Stefano said it was quite a beautiful place, serving a complimentary glass of Prosecco during intermission. PERFECT!

I bought my ticket and headed out to walk the streets for a few hours before the show began. I stopped in the Museo Della Musica to look around at some old instruments and read about the history of Vivaldi. It was a small cute little museum, located in a church showing different types of harps, violins, violas, and other string instruments. Also, with a room showing the building process of a violin. It was quite neat!

After the museum, I still had about an hour and a half to kill, so I found a restaurant in hopes of sitting and having a glass of wine. It was a bit chilly out, so I found a small table by the window inside and waited for a server. 5 minutes go by... 10 minutes... 15 minutes, I look at the bartender, thinking maybe I was to go up to him to order, I ask if a server comes here or not to which he informs me a server will come. 20 minutes... 25 minutes.
By this point, I'm grumpy and completely over the lack of service so I find myself another little cafe across the piazza and have a glass of prosecco before heading to the opera.

When I arrived at the building of the opera, I went over a small canal bridge, down a tiny alley way and into an itty bitty courtyard. I made a right through another doorway, up a staircase and found myself with a group of people handing my ticket to a woman in a large hallway. The hallway was full of lit candles, featuring rows of seating, a piano, fainting chair, and a table with a few champagne glasses and bottle. I took a seat by one of the walls where there were only three seats (most people there came in two's, so I thought I would sit where I wouldn't create an odd seat out.)

A few minutes a young girl, looking to be about my age, asked of the seat next to me was free. She spoke perfect english.
Okay, where ya from?
We get to chatting and it turned out she was from Thunder Bay, Ontario! Ha! What a coincidence that I end up sitting next to someone from the same province and I can actually have a relatable English conversation! Wahoo!

The opera began with a quartet of orchestra players until the tenor of the opera came out, waltzed around the room and began to sing. Then shortly after, the soprano came out and they both began a magnificent performance of La Traviata, a famous opera!

Now, throwing a reference to the movie Pretty Woman, when one first sees an opera one will either love opera and always love it or they will just never find a way to appreciate it. Well, like Julia Roberts says in the movie: "it was so good, I almost peed my pants!"

It was fantastic! Magical, even! This was the first opera I had ever seen and I was completely in love. The singers completely interacted with the audience, as if they were apart of the scenes. After Act 1, we were given our complimentary glass of Prosecco and then moved into another room of the "Palace." All three acts were in different rooms for each scene, it was very fun!

Following the opera, Claudine (the other Canadian girl) and I decided to grab a night cap at a nearby restaurant. We talked about our adventures and then head off in our separate directions.

During the opera, my phone had died - I had had no way to let my parents know that I was out late. By the time I plug in my phones and Skype with them to say "happy mothers day" to my mom, they were freaking out! Calling the hotel, hearing I hadn't checked in for some reason, messaging my Anita to see if she knew my itinerary for Venice... I felt bad, I should've emailed before my phone died! Oops!
"it's okay!!! I'm aliveeeeee!! 'Shes aliiiiivee, ahhh!" haha
I skyped with them for a few minutes, then went off to sleep completely exhausted from another long day!

Going across the bridge to Venice, Cruise Ships in sight!

Almost getting hit by one of the boats in America's Cup

America's Cup

Venice Canals & Gondolas

San Marcos Square

Museo de Musica Violin Crafting room

The Hall of the Opera